It’s 2:00 A.M. my dog wrestles in her bed, waking me up 30 minutes before my alarm is set to go off. Today’s mission: an extensive hike to some very secluded green and black sand beaches. The first thing needed was a very potent cup of black coffee and an egg crescant. My neighbor Camden and I throw our gear in his Jeep and head out for the south roads of the island around 3:45 A.M., my eyes drooping and still not fully awake. To be known, I only got about 2.5 hours of sleep. There is nobody on the road going South. Only a few early risers taking the road north. I wanted to take a nap during the hour-plus ride down to Southpoint, but conversation ensued and I just decided to stay awake. The stars followed us to our destination. The jeep parked in a discrete location close to the cliffside. Our journey begins around 5:00… My camera gear was on my back along with three water bottles and my flashlight. Following the cliffside was somewhat of a rush, not that we were completely on the edge, but close enough to be aware of our footsteps to not trip. It’s a long way down… Sunlight begins to pierce the Southern skyline. Silhouettes of wind brazened trees walk across the open fields as we trampled over the goat trails on the weathered cliffside. About 45 minutes to an hour or so past and we stand at our great descent down the 500-foot cliff to the first sandy beach. There are some ropes to assist in the descent, but when the sun is not up and you’re working with two hours of sleep it is somewhat disorientating. The minor effects of vertigo set in and paranoia of each step takes over for brief moments of time. Loose rocks and gravel crumble beneath on rocky edges as we gradually make our way down. Still, there is a peace of the unknown ahead. Camden has been to them multiple times, but this is my first. Friends and I have discussed kayaking to these locations before though it has not happened yet.
We make it down to the solid ground, the sun is only beginning to caress the cliffside and illuminate the clouds on the horizon. Large boulders that had fallen from the cliff, half-sunken into the tan sand greet us as we make it to the water’s edge. We stop on sections of lava rock that protrude out to the sea. Camden sets up his fishing rig, I take in the views and capture some photos. No luck catching anything at this location so we continue up the coast. Goats stand watching across the barren lava rock, then scatter as we gain on their location. The great rush of wind powering tall monumental windmills atop the cliff sound like a jet passing by. From here the land looks so open, endless. I let Camden go ahead and take a few moments. Even though we are on the “Big Island” It doesn’t seem that large when you are in town. It’s situations like this that really put into perspective how vast this place really is. The next area my feet take me is interesting. A field of green vine-like plants covers the sand and scattered lava rock. My memories take me back to when I lived on Oahu and the beaches were covered in this. Ancient lava rock walls show a historic presence. Was it a large Hawaiian structure? I guess I’ll never know. The story goes this was one of the first places they landed.
Camden continues finding spots to fish. I feel my thumbs itching to fly the drone and capture footage while the wind is still relatively calm. With the caldera up ahead, I tell him that I’m going to press forward to get some drone action. We were still fairly far away from the caldera and I wanted to save battery. The wind begins to slowly build up. Roaring behind me atop the upper plateau the windmills turn with their distant rumble. I launch my drone and am amazed at the ruggedness of the caldera. I wonder what this will look like in ten years. The wind and seas erosion has created a beautiful black sand beach. Canyons that go up the ocean side that reminisce of the grand canyon. Layers of different sediment. Layers of different times. Flying these drones is one of my favorite ways to capture footage. Soon I’ll have my pilot’s license or a paraglider to capture while actually flying. Different perspectives provide greater appreciation.
It’s otherworldly. The closest thing to Mars. Much of this island parallels no other place. I want to explore more and capture the wildness of this place. After no luck of catching anything, Camden catches up to me. We proceed to the black sand beach that rests beside the caldera’s feet. A whirling dust devil of eroded dirt and sediment windes up one of the vertical valleys. A waterfall of small rocks flows down as the wind rocks from what once was permanent. Colors range from dark red, brown, black, and maroon. Much like what I have seen in Utah and Montana. I am glad that I decided to push forward and capture aerial video when I did, as the wind has already begun to pick up. With the oceans swell the way it was we had to climb up over a wall of lava rock to reach the other side of the beach. Harsh shards of jagged lava rock shifted with every step. But over the next wall was a sight to behold. Greensands that was untouched besides the winds and sea. Not a footprint to be seen. The vibrance of the green sand was incredible. Diamonds of reflecting light multiplied. The black sand that is mixed within the greensand beach must be heavier than the green olivine because when the water washes up on the shore the olivine rests on top, yet the black volcanic sand leaves a layer just as a border of what was the water’s edge. I’ve never seen this much olivine, though then again I haven’t actually been to the most popular greensands beach on the island. I feel that after experiencing these beaches I will not be as impressed when I get there.
Here I sat in marvel. How many people have been here? What did this look like 50 years ago? Camden showed me photos that he took on his trek out here a few weeks prior. Even then, it looks different. It’s amazing the creation/devastation that the wind and water bring. The drone goes up in the air again. I hope that it’s able to capture the waves of green and black that cover this area. The water is turquoise with edges that drop into the dark. I am sure there is great diving here. Most likely multiples of sharks as well. One day I would love to camp down here. I wish I had a wider lens to grasp this landscape… It’s on my list. Camden once again has no luck with the fish. So we sit soaking up the sun and pondering in our own thoughts. It’s nice to be around someone that you don’t always have to be talking to. Filling the empty space with randomness. Just sit and observe. Above us, the sun bakes down yet I am surprised that the sand is not very hot. I am thirsty. Two of my water bottles are gone and we still had the whole way back. Clearly, I didn’t bring enough water. But I did pack light.
It’s 11 A.M. and we decide to put our shoes back on to make the hike back. I am glad that I made the decision to go on this trip. Sleep is temporary. Life is momentary. Take the moments. We take a different path on the way back. Throughout the vast black lava rock are white coral rocks that mark trails. Different views. After crossing the heated landscape we arrive back at the first white sand beach with the large boulders sunken into the sand. We take refuge for a while underneath some trees and rehydrate before taking on the 500-foot cliff. With daylight on our backs, the wall of rock that we had made our way down several hours prior looks much larger. Flashbacks to when I would hike in the mountains of Montana cross my mind. Rockslides of massive rocks await for our feet to scathe their way up. Going up was uneventful. Just tiring. My legs begin to sore. My head begins to ache from lack of sleep and probably not enough water. But we make it to the top. Another mission was completed. Another new landscape to remember. God’s creation is ever-changing. On the way back to the vehicle we saw a dolphin pod off the coast and a random very small boat, which looked like a rubber craft with two people possibly trolling for fish. We both got a kick out of that. The dry dirt turned to powder with every step, it reminded me of dry clay dirt that I saw on the Indian reservation in Arizona. Once back at the Jeep we took some time to hydrate and I remember thinking “I haven’t felt this alive in quite a while”. Away from constantly looking at a screen and civilization… I need to do it more.
