Mauna Kea Snow Trip
Yesterday Camden and I made a trip up to Mauna Kea to check out the snow. We originally had planned to make the 6 mile hike up to Mauna Loa again, but we had to rethink our plan once we got to the trailhead. As soon as we started hiking my ankle and foot started to experience sharp pains. I think I had rolled my ankle while playing with my dog the other day. As we took a breather and I examined the situation, I also took some time to pray about it. I definitely got the sense that going up Mauna Kea would be the better idea...And we would soon find out it was. So we tracked back to the car and began the drive down Mauna Loa and up Mauna Kea. They have rangers at the visitors center which is halfway up the mountain. They stopped us and asked if my car was 4x4, to which I just said yes and that it's a Subaru. At first, we both thought that the rangers were gonna give us a hard time, but after seeing some of the cars that had gone up I was not surprised at all that they let us through. There were two-wheel drives and even a Tesla (According to Camden).
When we reached the observatory a lot of the parking spots were taken, but I'm glad we got one when we did because loads more cars began arriving. The snow was gleaming with the sun still overhead, beginning its trail down to the horizon. There was a group that was snowboarding from the top by the observatory to the next road down below. They had a partner meet them down at the road in their truck and rush them back up so they could get as many runs in as possible which was pretty cool. The wind was blowing well enough to give chills. We were both not prepared to hike Mauna Loa at all. That would have been a road of suffering especially on the way down, given that we would have been hiking back in the dark. I had thermals on heavy socks, a beanie, winter gloves, and my jacket on, and was still cold. We explore the observatory for a bit and wait for the sun to get lower to the horizon for the golden light. After a bit, I hear sirens that sound like they are racing up the mountain. This was interesting because I was thinking on the way up what emergency services do for accidents up here. From my understanding helicopters sort of struggle at this altitude. I looked over the guardrail where a ranger had been standing talking on his radio. There was a guy way down at the bottom of one of the large hills. From the looks of it the ice and snow along with the steep grade was too much for him to get back up. Soon enough Rescue and paramedics were at the top looking at a way to get him up. I didn't stick around to watch, because a crowd was beginning to grow and I wanted to get back to the car to get my camera ready for photos. Here are some photos at the sunset and just after. The vivid golden-orange light was painted across the snow and contrasting black lava rock. Photos don't really do it justice. Snow in Hawaii... This is my third time in this experience. Both Camden and I had wanted to stay up on the mountain to take some long exposure astro photography, but it was not going to happen this trip. We were both too cold. Maybe this weekend...
Until next time.
Pololu to HonoKane Iki Valley
We planned in a week in advance. An early morning rise. Though not as early as Camden and I had driven through the night. Awake at 6:30 A.M. I regretted being awake. The previous night I stayed up relatively late. Played a game of pool with my friend Graham that's been in town. Packing my gear while my coffee brews, I'm barely awake. We all seemed to sleep in a bit. Camden, Forest, Graham, and I throw our tired bodies into the Tacoma. Mele excitedly jumps around in the bed of the truck. We leave later than originally planned, but all is well. I don't mind at all. Today's goal is to hike from Pololu valley to the third valley, the so-called HonoKane Iki valley. I don't usually make note of the Hawaiian names of things, but lately have felt it's the right thing to do. I have my drone, and camera along. I wanted to bring my FPV setup but unfortunately, I think I killed my GoPro.
It's the clearest that I've seen in some time. Hardly a cloud in the sky, not a bit of cover. Good for viewing, not so good for hiking amongst the valleys. But we aren't there yet. We stop for coffee in Hawi. Coffee is once again mandatory so everyone except Camden gets out of the truck. This was good because while getting out for coffee Mele decided to attempt an escape, and given that her leash was tied to the bed she risked hurting herself... My fault. I didn't tell her to stay and give her the hand signal. Usually she is good, but this is also her first time riding in the back of a truck bed. I think she learned her lesson... It's been good getting to know these guys more and more over the last year or so. We've all been sort of distant for one reason or another. Graham's presence on the property is one that brings appreciation to life. It's the people that don't make you try that are a blessing given. It's those that resonate and don't force the situations, those that don't mind being alone, yet enjoy being around. It's difficult to come by people that don't always need to be entertained. We joke, we tell stories and in between, there are talks of golden nuggets. But like all good things. I've learned they must all go.
We arrive at Pololu Valley. Change into our hiking attire. I get Mele set up with her water on her dog vest. She carries her own weight. Much like the hike with Camden from South Point to the caldera, I vaguely understand what I am getting myself into. My original understanding was that this was a 4-mile round trip hike, but I was soon to be corrected by circumstance. The hike down to Pololu seems much shorter than I recall from the times that I had done it in previous years. perhaps it was the tiredness and rush of two cups of strong coffee, either way, I just remember looking down at my feet floating over the dusty slopes and then looking up to the pine-ridden soft dirt to the entrance of the seaside. Traveling the first valley with no stop we all begin our first rise beyond where I personally have been. I recall Forest saying that the last time he had been to where we are headed was around 2-3 years ago. As we pass by the large trees and berms I recall the first times that I had been down in Pololu. First with my family for a random day hike, the second camping with my stepbrother Luke during a high wind advisory to camp. Listening to the trees smack violently above our heads like thunder, wondering if a widowmaker would crash down upon our tent and end this life. None the less I'm still here. for now.
Back to the hike. It's hellishly hot with the humidity. Hawaii's humidity is unforgiving coming from Arizona. But I'm sure that I was the least to suffer. With no clouds to cover from the intense sun, we were sure to cook for a bit until we got to the more dense jungle-like terrain. The first part of the hike is easy... in fact, I don't remember it being as short as it seemed. I remember picking my eyes up from watching the path and noticing that I had already arrived at the beach entrance. A few surfers leave the beach as we carry on to the first ascent to the peak of the next valley. I have never been past Pololu, nonetheless beyond a certain point on the beach. Just never wandered very far here. I let go of Mele's leash now that we are headed to the territory where not many people will be hiking. Her excitement is immediately noticed as she recognizes that she is free to roam where she pleases. The E collar is an excellent tool for a dog that likes to do its own thing. I'm sweating heavily already as we make our way up. The sun beats down between the trees with no remorse. We reach the peak of the next valley where a bench awaits for our rest. I capture a few snapshots with my phone and camera. Contemplate busting out the drone and getting some shots, but it's very bright and I figure I will have a better position when we arrive at our final destination. I take note of how much water and am already glad that I brought two extra water bottles. Graham is not digging the heat and humidity. He's just not acclimated to this humidity. After maybe 15 minutes of rest, we carry on. The trees eventually provide more cover, but the next fun challenge comes quickly. The loose sand-like ground on somewhat steep slopes. I lost traction a few times and had to catch myself from slipping down the valley wall. We arrive at a part of the trail that is very steep, so steep that someone had tied some ropes to assist in getting down. Not quite like rappeling, but was still fun nonetheless. Especially while keeping Mele from going down too fast and losing control. Next is some really interesting dense bamboo with a narrow path that goes through it. The temperature difference within the bamboo was incredible. A nice break between the beating sun. My boots are soaked from crossing a flowing stream with not so stable rocks to cross over. Helicopters fly overhead giving tours to see the waterfalls. It's cool to see them level with the peaks of the valley and so close. There's so much I haven't seen on this island, so much to probably be discovered as well. I hope that I can continue my streak of exploring something new every week.
More ropes greet us about halfway up the next ascent. Not to help us vertically, but to keep from slipping off the edge as we move forward. The ground is very loose. Mele navigates just fine though. I'm wishing I ate more of a solid breakfast besides coffee and half a bagel. Nothing too exciting really happens on the rest of the hike. Just lots of hiking and sweating. Some laughs and stories here and there. We enter the valley we intended to get to and it's a lot smaller than I had anticipated. There is a cabin close to the beach and then the wild ultra-fine black sand beach. I put down my bag and get a drink of water. Mele goes running towards the beach and supermans into the waves. She must have been just as hot as us, especially with her pack and carrying her own water. She runs the beach end to end, stopping here and there to roll around in the sand. Forest goes to the stream to get cooled off and take some time. Camden checks out the interesting lava walls that have been cut deep at the bottom by the constant bombardment from the ocean. Graham takes a rest on the bluff looking out over the beach. I'm amazed at how fine the sand is on the beach. When you pick it up it's almost like mud. My stomach begins to tell me it's time to eat. I had packed all of us salami wraps. Graham ate his in the car and was feeling not so great. So I shared one of mine. Now is the time to start flying the drone. The wind isn't too strong and it seems the helicopter traffic has sort of quieted down. I get some shots of the valley, beach and attempt to fly out to the two small islands that sit offshore further down the valley chain, but the valley's wall blocks the signal from me getting as close as I would like. I still got some cool shots though. I'll launch from a better vantage point with a direct line of sight on the hike back. I kept waiting for one of those touring helicopters to pop out of nowhere and I would have to dodge that hazard. Never happened though.
We lurk around on the beach for about 3 hours or so. Camden and I scoped out the stream flowing from the depths of the valley. Little black tadpoles glide back and forth. Alien like... The water is very cold and refreshing. I was tempted to throw my swim shorts on and jump in the ocean, then rinse off in the cold stream. But decided not to. Going from the cold stream water to the ocean made the ocean water feel like a warm bath. I lay down on the ground with my camera pack as a pillow and try to take a nap before the hike back. Drifted in and out of vaguely sleeping. I sit up and see that Forest and Graham had also laid down for a brief nap. Mele had wandered off to who knows where. I call her back with the E collar. it's about 2:30 or so and I get somewhat bored. Finding a bunch of coconut husks and spent coconuts I have some fun with the dog throwing the coconuts like tennis balls for her to fetch. She rips apart the husks like a chew toy. She's always loved chewing things up. Around 3:00 we decide to pack up and hit the trail back. The temperature is definitely cooler, but the humidity seems worse. When we get to the top of the valley I take out the drone and do a solid flight out to the islands rising out of the sea. It's exciting to explore a place with a drone that is not easily accessible. I capture some good footage on a few passes then get curious to get closer. There is a huge cave that goes through the smaller island. Due to it being behind the larger island I can only get so close because of reception issues. I notice that my drone's remote controller battery is very low. I forgot to charge it the night before... Still plenty of flight time, but I don't want to risk it. I use one battery and call it good. Besides I didn't feel like hiking back in the dark.
Camden was walking ahead of me on part of the trail and we both noticed that one of the ropes to assist in crossing a sketchy part of the trail was barely tied on. We both looked at each other and said "Sketchy". Camden properly ties the rope to the tree and we head-on. Mele tracks on like it's nothing. Back at the bench, we take another long break which was highly necessary. My hat was soaked, my jeans nearly drenched and everyone worn out. Camden and I talk about the islands for a bit. I notice they are very similar in shape, yet different in size. Camden has the thought that maybe it was a very old caldera that has just been worn out over years and years of water erosion. Good theory. I wonder if it's true. They do look like they could have been one at a point in time. Soon enough we get back at it to tackle the last descent before near the end of this hike. We ended up behind some other people that had hiked to the bench. Forest was in the lead with Graham behind him. They spot a shortcut and I hear Graham say " Yup, do it". It's pretty steep with loose dirt. In my head, I think "Well one of us is going down on this." Sure enough it's me... I lose traction and begin to slide. I put my hand down and feet outward, but don't go down all the way so I basically surfed down the shortcut. Graham sarcastically yells "Don't worry Chris I'll catch you!". I laugh and eventually gain traction again. Camden laughs and said something along the lines of "Nice man, you basically surfed that whole thing." At least it wasn't on one of the areas with no return.
Tiredness begins to hit me. I can tell Mele is starting to get tired as well. On the final ascent out of Pololu, she begins to slow down and wants to stop more often. I have to give her a bit of motivation with her leash to get her to follow. We stop at one of the lookout points to watch the surfers. Out of nowhere a small rat dog starts barking at Mele, its owner up the hill aways. A funny sight to see a guy with a goat and a small rat dog. The goat had a pack on it loaded up. Never seen that out here before. I'm sure they're great to help pack stuff like that though... Finally, we reach the top of the parking lot and we take refuge on the asphalt and rockwall. Graham seems to be hurting something fierce and apparently has heat exhaustion. Throwing off our gear into the truck was a relief. Another adventure completed. More footage was captured. New memories made. Until next time.
South Point to Hāwea Caldera
It's 2:00 A.M. my dog wrestles in her bed, waking me up 30 minutes before my alarm is set to go off. Today’s mission: an extensive hike to some very secluded green and black sand beaches. The first thing needed was a very potent cup of black coffee and an egg crescant. My neighbor Camden and I throw our gear in his Jeep and head out for the south roads of the island around 3:45 A.M., my eyes drooping and still not fully awake. To be known, I only got about 2.5 hours of sleep. There is nobody on the road going South. Only a few early risers taking the road north. I wanted to take a nap during the hour-plus ride down to Southpoint, but conversation ensued and I just decided to stay awake. The stars followed us to our destination. The jeep parked in a discrete location close to the cliffside. Our journey begins around 5:00... My camera gear was on my back along with three water bottles and my flashlight. Following the cliffside was somewhat of a rush, not that we were completely on the edge, but close enough to be aware of our footsteps to not trip. It's a long way down... Sunlight begins to pierce the Southern skyline. Silhouettes of wind brazened trees walk across the open fields as we trampled over the goat trails on the weathered cliffside. About 45 minutes to an hour or so past and we stand at our great descent down the 500-foot cliff to the first sandy beach. There are some ropes to assist in the descent, but when the sun is not up and you're working with two hours of sleep it is somewhat disorientating. The minor effects of vertigo set in and paranoia of each step takes over for brief moments of time. Loose rocks and gravel crumble beneath on rocky edges as we gradually make our way down. Still, there is a peace of the unknown ahead. Camden has been to them multiple times, but this is my first. Friends and I have discussed kayaking to these locations before though it has not happened yet.
We make it down to the solid ground, the sun is only beginning to caress the cliffside and illuminate the clouds on the horizon. Large boulders that had fallen from the cliff, half-sunken into the tan sand greet us as we make it to the water's edge. We stop on sections of lava rock that protrude out to the sea. Camden sets up his fishing rig, I take in the views and capture some photos. No luck catching anything at this location so we continue up the coast. Goats stand watching across the barren lava rock, then scatter as we gain on their location. The great rush of wind powering tall monumental windmills atop the cliff sound like a jet passing by. From here the land looks so open, endless. I let Camden go ahead and take a few moments. Even though we are on the "Big Island" It doesn't seem that large when you are in town. It's situations like this that really put into perspective how vast this place really is. The next area my feet take me is interesting. A field of green vine-like plants covers the sand and scattered lava rock. My memories take me back to when I lived on Oahu and the beaches were covered in this. Ancient lava rock walls show a historic presence. Was it a large Hawaiian structure? I guess I'll never know. The story goes this was one of the first places they landed.
Camden continues finding spots to fish. I feel my thumbs itching to fly the drone and capture footage while the wind is still relatively calm. With the caldera up ahead, I tell him that I'm going to press forward to get some drone action. We were still fairly far away from the caldera and I wanted to save battery. The wind begins to slowly build up. Roaring behind me atop the upper plateau the windmills turn with their distant rumble. I launch my drone and am amazed at the ruggedness of the caldera. I wonder what this will look like in ten years. The wind and seas erosion has created a beautiful black sand beach. Canyons that go up the ocean side that reminisce of the grand canyon. Layers of different sediment. Layers of different times. Flying these drones is one of my favorite ways to capture footage. Soon I'll have my pilot's license or a paraglider to capture while actually flying. Different perspectives provide greater appreciation.
It's otherworldly. The closest thing to Mars. Much of this island parallels no other place. I want to explore more and capture the wildness of this place. After no luck of catching anything, Camden catches up to me. We proceed to the black sand beach that rests beside the caldera's feet. A whirling dust devil of eroded dirt and sediment windes up one of the vertical valleys. A waterfall of small rocks flows down as the wind rocks from what once was permanent. Colors range from dark red, brown, black, and maroon. Much like what I have seen in Utah and Montana. I am glad that I decided to push forward and capture aerial video when I did, as the wind has already begun to pick up. With the oceans swell the way it was we had to climb up over a wall of lava rock to reach the other side of the beach. Harsh shards of jagged lava rock shifted with every step. But over the next wall was a sight to behold. Greensands that was untouched besides the winds and sea. Not a footprint to be seen. The vibrance of the green sand was incredible. Diamonds of reflecting light multiplied. The black sand that is mixed within the greensand beach must be heavier than the green olivine because when the water washes up on the shore the olivine rests on top, yet the black volcanic sand leaves a layer just as a border of what was the water's edge. I've never seen this much olivine, though then again I haven't actually been to the most popular greensands beach on the island. I feel that after experiencing these beaches I will not be as impressed when I get there.
Here I sat in marvel. How many people have been here? What did this look like 50 years ago? Camden showed me photos that he took on his trek out here a few weeks prior. Even then, it looks different. It's amazing the creation/devastation that the wind and water bring. The drone goes up in the air again. I hope that it's able to capture the waves of green and black that cover this area. The water is turquoise with edges that drop into the dark. I am sure there is great diving here. Most likely multiples of sharks as well. One day I would love to camp down here. I wish I had a wider lens to grasp this landscape... It's on my list. Camden once again has no luck with the fish. So we sit soaking up the sun and pondering in our own thoughts. It's nice to be around someone that you don't always have to be talking to. Filling the empty space with randomness. Just sit and observe. Above us, the sun bakes down yet I am surprised that the sand is not very hot. I am thirsty. Two of my water bottles are gone and we still had the whole way back. Clearly, I didn't bring enough water. But I did pack light.
It's 11 A.M. and we decide to put our shoes back on to make the hike back. I am glad that I made the decision to go on this trip. Sleep is temporary. Life is momentary. Take the moments. We take a different path on the way back. Throughout the vast black lava rock are white coral rocks that mark trails. Different views. After crossing the heated landscape we arrive back at the first white sand beach with the large boulders sunken into the sand. We take refuge for a while underneath some trees and rehydrate before taking on the 500-foot cliff. With daylight on our backs, the wall of rock that we had made our way down several hours prior looks much larger. Flashbacks to when I would hike in the mountains of Montana cross my mind. Rockslides of massive rocks await for our feet to scathe their way up. Going up was uneventful. Just tiring. My legs begin to sore. My head begins to ache from lack of sleep and probably not enough water. But we make it to the top. Another mission was completed. Another new landscape to remember. God's creation is ever-changing. On the way back to the vehicle we saw a dolphin pod off the coast and a random very small boat, which looked like a rubber craft with two people possibly trolling for fish. We both got a kick out of that. The dry dirt turned to powder with every step, it reminded me of dry clay dirt that I saw on the Indian reservation in Arizona. Once back at the Jeep we took some time to hydrate and I remember thinking "I haven't felt this alive in quite a while". Away from constantly looking at a screen and civilization... I need to do it more.
29th Year of Living
Celebrated my 29th year of being on this planet over the weekend. Camped on the beach, ate steak, gazed out at the Milkyway and its reflections on the ocean.
Onto 30...
Mauna Loa PT 2
Over the weekend I decided to do another trip back to Mauna Loa. This time with more gear and my FPV drone. The weather was not as kind as the first time, but it was a great experience nonetheless. The wind was racing at around 35mph so I was unable to get a few of the shots that I had planned, I'll save it for next time. These lava tubes are interesting to dwell in, especially when you go into the pitch-black "rooms". It's almost like being in an isolation chamber. No light and sounds are muffled like a recording booth. While we probably hiked 3/4 of a mile...We still haven't made it to the end of this one yet...
We set up lights in the lava tubes and captured some cool shots. Especially with the FPV drone. Crashed on one of the runs which unfortunately cracked the frame of the drone. Here's a video I put together of the footage along with some photos from the second trip.
Mauna Loa
On Monday October 4th my neighbor and I made the trek out to Mauna Loa for a day adventure. The skies were extremely clear, especially considering the recent volcano activity and saturated Vog that the Big Island has been experiencing. We got sort of a late start, leaving the house around 10:30 AM. When we arrived at Mauna Loa Road, it was a sight to behold. The visibility was incredible. Both Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa's peaks were visiible. Sparse clouds blossomed in the sky's surroundings. Hiking up was quite intense. The high altitude is not kind in general but it especially doesn't help if you don't take time to get acclimated for a while before going higher. We started at around 11,000 feet and trekked to nearly 13,500 feet give or take. Overall the trip took about 6 hours. Three hours going up, with some stops here and there. A about half an hour lurking around gazing out at the walls of the crater, and another few hours on the way down. (We did take a detour to check out a caldera that was distant from the trail.) Here are some photographs from the hike.
Mountain Bike Maks Road
After five years of not having a mountain bike, I finally found a decent one that fits. Drove all the way to Waimea to pick it up. The bike only had One owner who bought it in September 2020. Practically brand new. Today I decided to take it on an off-road adventure. Down one of the more difficult 4x4 roads Kona side. The road to Makalewena. I went off to a spot where I had my own beach with the dog to run around. Here are some pictures from the ride.
Off-roading Through Memories
Recently I took on a project with my Subaru. There were some parts that needed replacing, one of which was the tires. For about two years I have wanted to put a bit lift under it and some beefier tires. In the perfect timing, a wrecked Subaru Forester had gone up for sale on Craigslist to be parted out. If I could get my hands on the suspension parts, that would be a fairly simple upgrade and lift to start out. This was about a month ago now. But, for about 150 bucks and a camping trip over the weekend the suspension parts were mine. Next was some beefy all-terrain tires and new control arms. Took a few days to get it done, but it was definitely worth it.
Up until this last weekend, the car hadn't been offroad. So Saturday I jumped in the car and drove North with the dog to a place in Hawi. There's a lighthouse and a mostly vacant bay area. Setting up the hammock and having a cigar, there was a much needed time of rest. For reflection and release. Nothing but the windy breeze, crashing of ocean water at the cliff sides below me. The dog sits chewing on a coconut husk staring out at the ocean. My hammock floats like a sail in the wind. Ocean salt and cigar smoke. The day marks nearly a month of not drinking alcohol. Something that I had been personally holding onto for entertainment and distraction. Keeping thoughts of mistakes and failures on replay. But, when you wake up and don't like where you are in life or who you have become it's time to make a choice. It was time to shut it off... Hit the switch, swing the hammer and surrender. That's that... time to move on and move forward. There is a healing that needs to happen and that takes time.
There was an airplane that continuously was doing runs over the spot I was relaxing at. Seafoam green and white with twin props. My guitar in hand, I searched for a new progression or sound that was unfamiliar. Something will arrive. I was considering camping out overnight, but some stuff came up so decided to head home around sunset. Decided to clean my camera gear in the evening.
The next morning I finished cleaning and organizing my camera gear for the good of habit. Annika and I decided to go take on another adventure in the Subaru. Once again heading North, this time towards Waimea. There is a road that leads to the middle of nowhere, where cattle guards and numerous gates are to be passed through. The end of the road is at the base of Mauna Kea, wide grassy fields with cattle roaming and horses too. It's about an hour and a half journey on the rocky road. Some steep drops and inclines. The Subaru did great. Stopping to take a few photos along the way, the dog posed while I set up the shots. The scenery and feel of driving on the vacant dirt road reminded me of my time living in Utah. There was a spot that I would regularly drive to in order to get away from the city and watch the sunsets. To write and read. Reminiscing my time in Utah always brings good thoughts. I felt I was on target. Pursuing good things. It's always a good reminder.
There is a large mud pit close to the end of the road. Today it was dried out from lack of rain. But still offered an entertaining playground to thrash on the car a bit. The car was filled with dirt both inside and out, just as any good adventure ride should be.
More adventures to come, more to go.
-ArrowAhead-
